Dresses and tops are the hardest articles for busty women to find. Seams are in the wrong place, zippers don't zip, armholes feel tight or reveal a bra, buttons pop, our chests are crushed in a uniboob or spill out the top and sides, and so on… We either deal with ill-fitting clothing or, to fix it, we size up, buy “flowing” looks or hand over more money to a tailor. It actually doesn't need to be this way, which is why my design centers on tops and dresses that fit, off-the-rack.
Why do we have this struggle? Over the last 30 years, the average bra size has increased by three cup sizes. In fact, lingerie retailers have reported a 34DD as the average bra size today. This is compared to the 34B average in the 1980s. That’s a huge change. But the fashion industry still designs women’s wear to fit the B cup standard from almost a century ago, leaving full-chested women without options.
And you won’t get proper fitting clothing by making clothing larger; you must design using a different waist-chest ratio, and then incorporate seams and details that flatter this silhouette.
Bottom line... it isn’t a problem with your body, it’s a problem with clothing design.
How we design for women with C-I cup size
In university I spent years studying what works for women with a bust and have an intimate understanding of the problem because I am the market. All of this experience is reflected in my line.
Here’s what goes into our clothing:
> Model & Grading
Our sample size is designed to fit a woman with a D-cup bust but we don’t stop there. We use a complex grade that accounts for the fact that as the bust increases, the bust point drops. Ever had a bust dart hit your pectoral muscle? That’s why. If your boobs can’t defy gravity, neither should your grade.
> Fabric Selection
I work with several mills in Italy used by the top fashion houses. From their collection, I choose fabric with a bit of stretch for a tailored and comfortable fit. It’s the most flattering fabric I’ve found.
> Darts, Seams & Details
While I design with a ‘less is more’ mentality, I still obsess over the details. It gives the clothing its finish and beauty. With seams and clever dart placement, I can define the waist and create a modern, hourglass figure.
> Body Type
It’s not only the bust that defines you. I design styles that are flattering for different body types whether you are straight, balanced, or curvy. I’ll also let you know when I’ve found something universally flattering.
My goal for you
I want you to feel beautiful when you put on your clothing, off-the-rack. I want you to see your waist and wear your size. My clothes are meant to be sophisticated and timeless. They are pieces you can wear everyday, day or night, and pack on all your travels.
What about the bra?
I swear by my bras. They are the most important foundation garment and will help you look and feel your best. There are a number of great bra companies like Primadonna, Panache and Empreinte. We feel there are great options on the market.
Yet, even the best bra won’t make up for flaws in clothing design. It can’t combat the problems with sizing, dart placement, and unflattering cuts; that’s why we’re making clothing.
Rest assured, I will never design a garment that can’t be worn with a bra.